Method of making a ring



June 21, 1932. B F BROGAN 1,863,618

METHOD F MAKING A RING l Filed Aug. 14, 1930 WITNESS:

INVENTOR w BY Patented `lune 21, 1932 UNITED STATES BYARD F. BROGAN, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA METHOD F MAKING A RING- Application filed August 14, 1930. Serial No. 475,356.

This invention relates to method of making a ring, and has for an object to providea method whereby a ring, such as disclosed 1n co-pending application Serial No. 41:7 5,355

5 filed on even date herewith for ring is constructed.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method, the steps of which, practiced in proper sequence, will produce the required lf' and desired ring without turning or distorting any of the parts during or after any of the steps.

A further object of the invention is to construct a ring having internal azures, and eX- ternally, a groove with cups formed in the bottom of the groove communicating with the azures and jewels set in said cups, and retained therein by crimping the edges of the channel.

At the present time, rings are constructed by forming depressions in the laterial side of a band, and then turningthe band so that the depressions come within or without the ring, or both, so that the proper facilities are provided for setting the stones in their required relation.

Among other serious objections to this method of making a ring, is the fact that the turning of the band distorts the perforations already formed, and by reason of the surface tensioning, destroys any polish which may have been imparted to such depressions or indentations in the stamping.

The present invention comprises a method whereby the necessary indentations and perfora-tions are provided by instrumentalities having highly polished surfaces, whereby the indentations and cavities are given a high polish which adds to the lustre of the jewel set in conjunction therewith.

The invention, therefore, comprises the formation of a ring, by first producing azures in the surface of the interior of the opening, U followed by producing a channel in the eX- terior surface, having continuous curvature from side to side, forming perforations communicating from the azures to the channel, and reaming out cups in the bottom of the channel registering with the perforations, such cups being properly proportioned to receive the appropriate stones which are maintained therein by the final step of crimping the edges of the channel into engagement with the stones. v

The invention is directed to other objects and possesses other features of novelty and advantage, some of which, together with the foregoing, will be hereinafter more fully set forth.

In the drawing:

Figure l is a view of la blank'band which enters into the first step of the method,

Figure 2 is a view of the band partly in side elevation, and partly in section, showing schematically, the first step practiced upon the band, l

Figure 3 is a view of the ring in side elevation, shown upon a conventional mandrel, and showing also, a conventional cutter or former by the use of which, a groove is formed in the exterior of the ring forming a round bottom channel, l

Figure 4 is a View of a ring, partly in elevation and partly in section, showing the n-eXt step in the method, that of punching, the punch forming communication from the azure to the channel,

Figure 5 is a view of a ring, partly in elevation and partly in section, showing the application thereto, of a drill for forming a cup to receive the stone, and

Figure 6 is a view of the ring, partly in elevation and partly in section, showing in the elevation, the completed cups, and in section, a stone placed and secured therein.

Like characters of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the several views.

The improved process, which forms the subject matter of this application, comprises, taking a plain annulus l0, made of the required metal, and as the first step placing this annulus in some retaining device, such as the groove ll in the base l2 of a press, having some means, as the lever 13, for forcing the punch 14, into the interior of the band forming depressions l5 about the interior, such depressions being technically known as azures.

Enclosing the ring in the groove l1, orV

some equivalent structure, prevents the distortion of the ring owing to the punching of the punch 14 into its material.

After the completion of the azures, the ring is placed upon a mandrel 16 driven in any approved manner, and to the exterior surface applied a cutter or former 17, also driven in any approved manner. The rotation ofthe ring upon this mandrel, and in contact with the former 17, produces therein a round bottom channel 18. r1`his channel 18 is not cut to sufficient depth to communicate with the azure 15. The ring is now returned to the press and the lever 13 provided with a punch 19. The groove 11 is provided in its bottom, withA a die 2O corresponding to the curvature of the channel 18, which said die has an opening 2l, through which, material punched from the band by the punch 19, maybe ejected. The punching produces a cylindrical perforation 22, forming commu'- nication between the. several azures and the channel 18. It will be understood that this channel 18, and the perforations 22, will be formed entirely about the ring, provided an equivalent number of stones are to be set therein. If the number of stones is to be limited to less than a complete encircling series within the channel 18, then the perforations will be limited in their circumferential extent to correspond to such reduction in the number of stones.

From the punching step, shown at Figure 4, the ring is subjected to a drill 23, as shown at Figure 5', the point of said drill following the perforation 22, and forming a cup for the reception of the stone 24', shown at Figure 6. As before explained, as regards to the channel 18 and perforations 22, thenumber of cups may be sufficient to entirely en- 1kc)ircle the band or limited to any lesser num- The punch le forming the azures, and the punch 19 forming the perforations, will be of highly polished metal imparting to the respective indentations and perforations a highly polished surface. rlhe cups formed by the drill 28, being upon the exterior of the ring, are in position to receive a high lustre polish by any usual well known means. After such polishing, the stones 24 are set in the cups 25, and the edges of the channel 18.crimped inwardly as at 26, to bear upon the-stones, this being shown at Figure 6. In the drilling of the cup by the drill 23, the taper of the drill will be chosen in regard to the taper of the jewel, and the taper of the drill will be at a. more acute angle than the jewel itself, so that the jewel will bear upon the c up only adjacent its major circumference, leaving spaces 27 about the under side of the jewel.

The formation of the cups in the bottom of the curved channel, will produce triangular upstanding parts 28 which will till the inten' stices between the divergent parts of the stones when finally set, so that such interstices will not accumulate dirt. The accumulation of dirt is objectionable from the sanitary and artistic point of View, and also detracts from the brilliancy and sparkle of the gem.

It will be noted, that all of the steps in this process, are practices upon the annulus, whichA was, at the outset, a plain band, and that at no time, is the band turned, rolled or otherwise distorted to distort the several openings, perforations or indentations formed' therein, or tomar the polished surface of such indentations, or the like, and that when completed, the exterior presents somethin-g approximating a: plane` surface by rea-v son of the: triangular fillers interposed between the divergence ofthe stones,.such fillers being resultant from thea-renate channel, and the drilling of the cups in such arcuate channels.

lt willi be understood byv one skilled in the art, that the several steps above outlined, will produce, thereby, corners, burrs and other irregularities, which said corners, burrs and irregularities, will be from time-totime, removed and corners rounded by any means and practice known inthe art.

Of course, the method of making aring, hereiniliustrated, may bel modified in various ways without departing from theI invention herein set forth and hereinafter claimed.

The invention is hereby claimed as follows.:

1*.. The method@ of making a ring, consisting in indentingthe interior surface of an annular ring blank with azures, forming in the exterior, oftheband cups communicating with the azul-esy and producing interlying reflecting fillers andL setting jewels into said cups and inturning the edges to-retain said jewelscontiguousto said reflecting fillers.

2. The methodl of'malting aring, consistingL in indenting intothe interior of air annularringblank a plurality of circumferentiallyv spaced azures, producing on the exterior ofthe ringvk a circumferential; groove forming a round bottomchannel, producing inthe bottom of the channel a plurality of cups communicating with the azures, setting jewels in the cups and turning inwardly the edges ofthe channel into engagement with the jewels.

8; The method ofimaki'ngaring-,consisting in indenting into thek interior'surface of an annular ring blank a` plurality of' azures with highly' polished surfaces, producing in the exterior ofy the ring'a roinid'bottom channel, lproducing iii the bottom of the channel: tapered cups communicatingwithv the azures, polishingv the cups, inserting jewels into the cups, in proximity to the angular" fillers formed`- by the transection4 of' the cups and round bottomed channel', and turning' the edges ofJ the channel inwardly into locking engagement with segments of the perimeters of the jewels.

4. The method of making a ring, consisting in indenting into the interior of an annular ring blank a plurality of circumferentially spaced azures, stopping short of penetration, producing in the exterior of the band a round bottom channel forming spaced marginal iianges, producing in the bottom of the channel tapered cups communicating with the azures, polishing the surface of the cups, introducing jewels into the vcups in proximity to the angular fillers formed by the transection of the tapered cups and round bottomed channel and crimping the edges of the channel into retaining engagement with the perimeters of the jewels.

5. The method of making a ring, consisting in indenting into the interior of an annular ring blank a plurality of circumferentially spaced azures, forming in the exterior of the band a round bottom channel, the azures v and channel not communicating7 producing a perforation forming communication from the azures to the channel, reaming the external ends of the perforations to form jewel receiving cups, placing jewels in said cups in proximity to the angular llers formed by the transection of cup and round bottomed channel and crimping the edges of the channel into retaining engagement with the perimeters of the j ewels.

6. The method of making a ring, consisting in forming a round bottom channel in the outer surface of a band, producing perforations from the interior, communicating with said channel, reaming said communicating openings to form cups with interlying angular fillers, introducing jewels into said cups contiguous to said fillers, and turning the edges of the channel into retaining engagement with the peripheries of the jewels.

7 The method of making a ring, consisting in reaming tapered perforations in the exterior of a band, to produce interlying triangular and inwardly curved reflecting lillers, inserting jewels into said reamed openings contiguous to said fillers, and turning in adjacent parts for locking said jewels.

8. The step in the method of making a ring consisting in impressing a series of i11- dentations into the interior surface of an annular ring blank and forming cavities in the exterior communicating with the indentation.

9. The step in the method of making aV BYARD F. BROGAN. 

